Today I picked up my new Takayama Model-T with glassing by Ricky Carroll Surfboards. I also got to drive my van AND surf. The waves were nothing to write home about but it all just felt so good. Even the 3-2 wetsuit.
I had ordered this surfboard over a year ago before returning home from Puerto Rico in Spring of 2017 but before I ever had a chance to pick it up from the surf shop, I was hit with a health issue that kept me from surfing and driving and even riding my bike for 6 months.
I found other things to fill my summer with last year but it feels amazing to be back behind the wheel of my 1989 Vanagon with my 9-6 Model T all cozied up inside. Looking forward to some quality camping this year full of dawn patrol sliders and sunset sessions followed by home (van) cooked meals. Even the act of making tea in my van is something that I delight in.
And so we begin again...