Getting amped to set my studio back up here in New England after a long journey inward.
During the ongoing pandemic there were 2 months of surfing being totally illegal in PR (with exercising outside illegal as well). I passed time thinking, practicing gratitude, upping my yoga practice, talking to family + friends on the phone/ZOOM, chilling with my cats, spending too much time on social media, and listening to a ton of WGBH radio.
I'm back in New England and just had my first multi-day camping surf trip of the season. So grateful for the waves, the sunrises and the sunsets. I brought my nice camera with me. Here are a few shots from a few days and a couple of nights in Rhody.
Today I picked up my new Takayama Model-T with glassing by Ricky Carroll Surfboards. I also got to drive my van AND surf. The waves were nothing to write home about but it all just felt so good. Even the 3-2 wetsuit. I had ordered this surfboard over a year ago before returning home from Puerto Rico in Spring of 2017 but before I ever had a chance to pick it up from the surf shop, I was hit with a health issue that kept me from surfing and driving and even riding my bike for 6 months. I found other things to fill my summer with last year but it feels amazing to be back behind the wheel of...