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Begin Again, and Again, and Again...

Today I picked up my new Takayama Model-T with glassing by Ricky Carroll Surfboards. I also got to drive my van AND surf. The waves were nothing to write home about but it all just felt so good. Even the 3-2 wetsuit. I had ordered this surfboard over a year ago before returning home from Puerto Rico in Spring of 2017 but before I ever had a chance to pick it up from the surf shop, I was hit with a health issue that kept me from surfing and driving and even riding my bike for 6 months. I found other things to fill my summer with last year but it feels amazing to be back behind the wheel of...

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Throwback: Traditional Hawaiian Prayer for Surf

It was July in 2011 and it looks as if we were in the middle of a typical summer flat spell. I wonder if this helped at all. na a 'ohe nalu, a laila aku i kai, penei e hea ai (If there is no surf, invoke seaward in the following manner): "Ku mai! Ku mai! Ka nalu nui mai Kahiki mai, (arise, arise you great surfs from Kahiki) Alo po i pu! Ku mai ka pohuehue, (the powerful curling waves. Arise with the pohuehue) Hu! Kai ko'o Loa. (Well up long raging surf.)

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